Ku Ku KaChew

Welcome to the world of Ku! This was originally a food blog, but I am turning it into a general collection of my life experiences :)
If you're looking for my raw food blog, you can find it here: http://atlantarawks.blogspot.com

Saturday, July 26, 2014

Tales of Taipei


Well hey, Blogger!! Haven't been on you in a while! I had a wonderfully amazing time in Xiamen spending time with new and old family and learning about my roots. I come from some really awesome people and it makes me very proud :-)

I'm currently in Taipei, Taiwan and absolutely loving it!! Since I've been slacking with the posts, here are a few separate snippets about my time here so far.

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This city is unlike any I've ever been to. Below are some factors that contribute to my adoration of this beautiful place:

Transportation
The Taipei metro is fast, cheap, convenient, accessible, clean, and super easy to navigate. Scrolling marquees in both Chinese and English make getting lost difficult. Before you even enter a station there are screens outside the gates indicating whether a train is about to arrive or has just left, so you never have to run frantically to the platform only to watch your train pull away from you. There are lines on the platforms to organize people entering and exiting the trains, and what's even more fascinating is that people actually abide by them! This was an immediately noticeable difference from the metro in Shanghai where everyone is constantly pushing and shoving their way on and off the trains in utter chaos. Children, elderly, disabled folks, and pregnant women are not spared any courtesies on the mainland. Chinese people on the mainland are in a constant struggle with each other because there are just SO many people EVERYWHERE. It's no wonder they've inhabited a fend-for-yourself disposition. But Taiwan is miniscule compared to the mainland. The entire island has only 23 million people compared to the mainland's 1.3 billion people (not to mention the glaringly obvious difference in land mass), so it's only natural that there would be differences. Plus Taiwan is democratic! So for example, with escalators, everyone (I mean EVERYONE) stands on the right side so that people can pass on the left. While this is also common in America, it is more a theory than an actual practice. And here, priority seating is always followed. There are often empty seats on the subway cars even when there are several people still standing. I've never experienced a city with people who are so cooperative as those in Taipei. Bus systems, especially in foreign languages, can be overwhelmingly confusing. But bus signs and routes here are very clear (also in Chinese and English) and are pretty easy to understand. If subways and busses weren't enough, there are also cheap, fast trains that cover the entire perimeter of Taiwan. Easy peasy lemon squeezy! Also there are clean bathrooms in every metro station. I feel like I haven't seen that in other cities, but maybe I haven't been paying attention?

Nature
To piggyback on transportation, it's incredibly easy to access nature from this modern city. Just hop on a metro line and ride it til the end and you will be only minutes away from outdoorsy wonders including hiking trails, hot springs, and lush mountains. No need for a car to get your nature on here!

Food
Two words: street food!! It's cheap, delicious, and, unlike some other areas of Southeast Asia, Taiwan's street food is not likely to divert you to spending half a day on the porcelain express. $5USD will get you plenty satiated at a night market. If you've had enough of foods that have been fried and skewered, just walk around and you'll undoubtedly come across a variety of international restaurants to choose from, also very affordably priced. Taipei offers the same diversity of cuisine available in Hong Kong but without the dent in your wallet.

History and Culture
Museums? Art? Temples? Monuments? Shows? Artifacts? Festivals? It's all here!!

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OK so let me tell you about a glorious day I had here.

I took the metro in the morning to Xiangshan station and walked about 0.5km to the base of Elephant Mountain (there was excellent signage). I spent almost 4 hours hiking (and not leisurely) around the mountain and didn't come close to covering even 1/4 of the trails. These are well-paved, well-signed trails that satisfy explorers of all ages and skill levels. Some may scoff at the artifice of groomed steps instead of rugged rocky terrain, but a smoother path does not necessarily mean a less arduous hike. I personally loved seeing a number of elderly people dedicated to what seemed like a routine trek for them. I got winded throughout my journey (and I'm a triathlete, damnit!) and was impressed with their nonchalance and perseverance. A non-paved path would surely result in less people able to enjoy fresh air and exercise in such beautiful scenery. There are points along the trail with exercise equipment, even a barbell with weights! 

There are tons of side spurt trails for those looking for more of a challenge on a less populated path, and I took my chances on one of these outliers. I'm so glad I did because I eventually discovered a very steep path that had knotted ropes to climb up large mossy rocks! It was like rockclimbing, but without the security of a harness. Before I committed to the climb, I realized that I was very much alone. I hadn't seen anybody on this side path and I was at least 30 minutes away from the main path. If I fell or slipped it was very likely I wouldn't be found for a while... I could hear my mother's voice in my head urging me not to risk it, but I shook it off and decided that this was my do-one-thing-every-day-that-scares-you moment (shout out to Baz Luhrmann). So up I went! In retrospect I feel like it really wasn't that scary, but I was actually a bit shaky when I reached the top! I was rewarded with a beautiful view of Taipei101 that was blemished by an enormous spider resting in its spectacular web. I went up a bit further, feeling very cat-like; if there is a higher place to go, I wanna be up there! I almost laughed out loud when I saw what was at the very top: IT WAS THE MAIN PATH!!!!! Miffed at the sheer thought that anyone would take the easy way back down after such an exhilarating climb, I promptly turned around and went back down the ropes course! It was much less scary going down, although that might be because I actually put away my headphones on the descent :-P

Feeling wonderfully accomplished, I made my way back down the mountain with a smile on my face and a spring in my step. I hopped back onto the metro and only rode it one stop to the Taipei101 station. Walked a few blocks to Eslite Bookstore, which is a large chain with several floors of books, shops, and food. I had lunch at a vegetarian place that used a plate-by-weight system (like Whole Foods' cafeteria). At only $109TWD (<$4USD), I was thoroughly full. I wandered around the bookstore a bit, but it wasn't like Borders or Barnes and Noble. No big comfy couches or chairs to post up in and get lost in a crisp new cookbook (my personal go-to). Instead there were only hard chairs or benches and most of the books were sealed with clear wrappers to preserve the mystery of their contents. It was crowded, noisy, and cold, so I went back out into the steamy city streets.

I took the metro from Taipei101 over to the Taipei Zoo station to catch the gondola up to Maokong. The gondola costs $50TWD (<$2USD) to the top and another $50TWD to come back down. It takes approximately 30 minutes each way and has a few exit points along the way for tea and temples. I spotted a rooftop restaurant at the top and went straight there to settle in for the sunset. To my surprise I was the only one there for a good while. Granted, I got there around 17:30, so a bit early for dinner, but still. With a view like that I'm shocked it‘s not packed 24/7!

I stayed for a couple hours reading and soaking in the view. Ordered fried noodles (kinda like Pad See Ew) for $100TWD (~$3USD) and it was almost too much food. Sunset was around 18:30 and was absolutely marvelous from Maokong. What a great way to wind down the day :-)

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Today I had a nice turn of events. After just missing the bus to go the a national park, I botched that plan and explored Shilin instead. I meandered along the Keelung River, which was lined with a long bike path, rugby fields, and softball fields. I then went past the Taipei Astronomical Museum (which I did not go to because I decided that I have to wait and go with my aerospace/astrophysics best friend!) and noticed a sign that said something like "Science and Physics Park." Say what? It was like Sci-Trek... OUTSIDE!! Tons of interactive structures all over! Very very cool.

I then went along a perpendicular river and it was smaller and quieter. The bike path continued on along this river, but there were no more sports fields. Instead, locals with fishing poles dotted the riverbank. I sat and relaxed on a bench under a bridge for a bit to enjoy the shade and the breeze. A group of tandem bikers came and took a break under the bridge as well. Some of the bikers were escorted to the benches and had walking sticks. Half of the bikers were blind! The group leader made an announcement and was given a plaque from the group. He started crying as he spoke to the group and it was so so moving. How wonderful that this group enables blind people to experience bike riding in a safe way! And how rewarding it must be to give someone that kind of experience. No doubt they do it voluntarily. Does this kind of organization exist in the States? If not, it really should, and I want to be a part of it!! I was so glad I got to witness this special moment. I love how even despite language barriers, so much can be understood by one another. So much of what is communicated is through body language and facial expressions, not specific words, and I've experienced that so fully on this trip. 

I stayed there on the bench under the bridge for a while after they left, almost paralyzed by their compassion. Call me naive or sheltered or even my mother, but I will always believe that people in general are good. I know we get exposed to so much negativity and cruelty with the news and media, but when I am out in the world and I see people helping each other, in small and big ways, it's powerful. When I pay attention and I disconnect from my phone, my iPod, my tablet, and other distractions, I see so many little gestures. From alerting someone of an item dropped to assisting with lifting a heavy object to giving up a seat, these are all meaningful acts of kindness. Yes it's cliché, but they make the world such better place, and I feel so grateful whenever I witness them.

People helping people. That's what it's all about, guys :-D


Friday, July 4, 2014

July update

I made some really great friends at Verdura, my first WWOOF farm in China! I was the first WWOOFer they've ever had so it has been a new experience for all of us! They tell me I set the bar too high for future volunteers, that I restored their faith in Americans, and were plotting to hide my passport so I couldn't leave :-P

Some of the people I work with took me out to dinner on my last night at the farm and we all had a great time. They'd never hung out together outside of work! Lots of laughing and of course lots of food!

Spent a couple nights in Ningbo on the way down to Xiamen. Was really nice to relax there and walk around.

I'm in Xiamen now with my cousin, Keith. Got here just in time for the 4th of July! In trying to find out if there was an American scene here for the holiday, we saw online that it was a boat from Xiamen that had the tea that was in the Boston Tea Party so that the US should be thankful for Xiamen hah! We found a Texas restaurant, played some foosball, and made some friends! Continued the party on the beach and even saw some fireworks!! The owner of the restaurant at the beach decided we were his new best friends and treated us to food and drinks galore! We then went swimming out to a boat and promptly got yelled at by a Chinese guy (whose boat it was) but we didn't mess it up! Finally strolled back home around 3am, probably the latest I've been up since arriving in Asia! Was a fun night :-)

Some interesting observations and tid bits:
■ I lasted 2 months traveling around Asia before having any kind of stomach issues. I can't even go that long at home without a funny tummy!
■ When eating, anything that needs to be discarded (dried chilies, ginger chunks, bones) gets put directly on the table and is all cleaned up after the meal when wiping the table down (no table cloth).
■ Mosquito "incense" coils are incredibly more effective than anything citronella in the States, and they burn for 12 hrs! I got a box of them to use at the next farm just in case!
■ It is popular for girls/women to wear contacts that make their irises look bigger. Here it's considered beautiful to have large irises, but from a Western perspective, the first time I saw it it looked so creepy!
■ Chinese women are unbelievably strong both physically and emotionally.
■ Chinese men often lift up their shirts to expose their bellies when it's hot outside.
■ The local workers call me Xiao Gu (Little Ku) and it makes me smile :-) Nobody believes that I'm 27 hah!
■ Toilet paper is rarely available in public restrooms, you have to carry your own pack of tissues. I now opt for squat toilets instead of Western ones if given the choice. Also, regardless of toilet style, all toilet paper is discarded in trash cans, not flushed down.
■ It's common to see children (usually with slits in their pants) squatting over streets, sidewalks, and grass to relieve themselves. When you gotta go you gotta go!
■ All hotels have electric kettles in each room to sterilize water, which is great for saving money on bottled water.
■ All waste bins are coupled with recycling bins.
■ I have yet to sleep in a bed with a top sheet. They all have fitted sheets and a blanket but no top sheet. Mattresses are considerably thinner and harder than in the US. In the summer many people put bamboo mats on beds and pillows to stay cool.
■ It's common for domestic flights to have delays, but the high speed trains are extremely timely. Security for the trains is very light, no need to empty pockets or dispose of liquids, I got through with a 3" knife in my pocket.
■ I unknowingly got a train ticket that does not have an assigned seat so I spent the 5.5 hr ride from Ningbo to Xiamen bouncing around different seats and standing in between cars!
■ A big tour group got on the train and had a duffle bag entirely dedicated to lychees to share and eat on the ride :-)
■ I've grown to really enjoy waking up early. It's so nice to have so much of the day! I read an article once that said there is a high correlation between successful people and waking up early and I believe it. I intend to maintain my early rising when I return home!
■ I should cook for more people more often. Being here has made me feel wonderfully validated, both in terms of my work ethic and my cooking. Working for my dad and cooking for friends and family hasn't always made me feel confident in my skills. But being in a completely new and disconnected environment has really made me realize my worth and abilities. Especially being a foreigner, I've had to "prove" myself and I can comfortably say that I have! Local Mr Zhou even joined us for lunch one day because the others raved to him about my dishes :-D He said I'm the only foreigner who can cook Chinese food!! I want to feed people when I get home, not as a job but to shift to having people over for meals more than going out to eat so much. I want to have a regular open house meal at my place (wherever that may be) for my friends (yes, YOU!) to come and get a free homecooked meal! Who's in??
■ I should art more too.
■ I'm contemplating going even more minimal when I return. I've already grown accustomed to no dishwasher, no TV, and no car. Now I want to remove internet. Not completely, just from my home! I spend far too much time in front of a screen and I honestly don't have the self control to not use the internet when it's easily available. If I eliminate it from my home, I know I will create more art and music. I really love times when I'm disconnected, but I don't have the will power to not be online. I may also start handwashing and air drying my laundry.

It amazes me how quickly my priorities and interests shift. When I was in high school, my goal was to go to a college where I could snowboard on the weekends. I had little interest in cooking and absolutely no interest in agriculture. When I graduated from college I wanted to live in a high rise and become a top business executive. Last year I never would have even entertained the idea of living anywhere but midtown Atlanta. And now? I want a simple 9-5 job and a house where I can grow my own produce. But I have so much inner conflict! I want to literally plant some roots, but I also want to continue traveling and exploring. I feel like I have to choose. One idea is to get a job at Delta so that I can have flight benefits, that way I could stay in Atlanta but still travel often! I'm mulling several things over so we will see. Please stay tuned and continue vicariously joining me on this journey of life :-) As always, thoughts and comments are very appreciated!